Pencil Tip Soldering
Simulating Soil and Rock for your Taxidermy display
1) Soil – as the object is to represent the specimen in the midst of its natural surroundings, the soil must be replaced by something light, and yet so like the original substance that the difference is not noticeable. This can be achieved by mixing enough plaster-of-paris with some PVA glue to make a cream. Then with a small brush cover every part of the groundwork with this composition. Probably by the next day it will be dry. Then paint it with thin glue and dash on plenty of sharp sand (silver sand is the best). When dry, proceed to colour the work with oil colours, well thinned with turps, blending them well one with the other suitable colours for soil are : Yellow, burnt sienna (with or without burnt umber), and black, making the hollow parts rather darker, and dusting on Saxon green on the higher parts. Another option is to use scenic scatter which is readily available from model shops or online and comes in various shades. This is laid on a PVA glue base.
2) Similarly with rock, you will need a lightweight alternative. This can either be achieved by forming a chicken wire frame over which is laid plaster of paris or scrap newspaper daubed liberally with diluted PVA glue. Another option is to soak screwed up ‘balls’ of newspaper again soaked with PVA glue solution and place this in an area to form a ‘rocky’ base. This should then be covered with small square pieces of tissue paper soaked in a PVA solution. Once dry paint and cover with coloured scatter, this gives a good earth or grass appearance and is available from good model shops. A final alternative for making a rock face for which you’ll need
• Some Expanded polystyrene, the stuff used for packaging • A Hacksaw or Stanley knife • A Soldering Iron (you could also use a knife to make the rock pattern) • White poster paint • Black enamel paint • A paintbrush First, grab your polystyrene and cut off a (or a number of) thin slivers with either a hacksaw or a knife for size of the gap you are going to fill. Once cut to size it’s a good idea to break off some of the top to make the shape more random, as you’ll rarely see a perfectly rectangular rock face. Don’t worry about neatness here, just as long as you don’t tamper with the edges you’ve just lined up. Now, to the tricky (fun?) part: the soldering. (note: you could use a specially designed heat knifes for carving polystyrene. Make sure you use a well-ventilated room as the fumes are possibly toxic, might be best in a garage with the door flung open, or even outside if the weather is suitable. When the soldering iron is hot, gently sweep across the polystyrene to melt the surface. You can be quite artistic with a soldering iron. You can do as you see fit for this bit. Just use the tool like a pencil and carve various shapes and formations to make a rocky appearance. Remember that the polystyrene is thin, so press lightly if you do make a hole however, a suitable ‘filler’ piece can be made quite easily. For the paint it’s best to mix black enamel paint with white poster paint. As these two don’t mix properly, it will give the rock a weathered, more realistic texture which really adds to the effect. Mix them together but don’t be too worried if they aren’t completely mixed, rocks often look better darker in places and lighter in others! Apply enough paint to ensure there is no white visible. You don’t need to paint the back but it’s a good idea to paint the top and sides as these may become visible when placed on the scene. There you have it, one painted rock face. This will take a few hours to dry, as although the poster paint dries relatively quickly, the nature of the enamel paint and the mixture means it takes longer. Once dry, the rock face can be fixed in placed with wood glue, pva or hob-e-tac, but NOT superglue, which will melt your rock face and all your hard work into a sticky mess. When in position, apply some scenic scatter to the top to make the rock face seem to blend into the hill, and make it look less like someone’s just stuck it there!
About the Author
The Author has written a number of Taxidermy articles and is owner of the site http://www.taxidermybook.com which has the most comprehensive guide to learning classic Taxidermy
Soldering Trackwork Using SuperSafe Flux
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